Saturday, January 27, 2007


I helped Mank make this once years ago, it was labor intensive, but so worth it.

2/3 cup sugar
3 tablespoons water
1 1/2 cups whipping cream
1/2 cup milk
1/4 cup sugar
4 ounces imported milk chocolate, chopped
2 1/2 teaspoons instant coffee granules
3 large egg yolks
1 large egg

1 1/2 teaspoons instant coffee powder
1/2 teaspoon water
4 ounces imported milk chocolate, chopped
2 tablespoons whipping cream

For Custard:
Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 325 deg. F. Place six 1/2 cup ramekins or custard cups in baking pan. Stir 2/3 cup sugar and 3 tablespoons water in heavy small saucepan over low heat until sugar dissolves. Wash down sugar crystals from sides of pan with brush dipped into
cold water. Increase heat to medium-high and bring mixture to boil. Boil without stirring until mixture turns deep golden brown, swirling pan occasionally, about 9 minutes.

Immediately divide caramel among ramekins. Carefully tilt ramekins to coat bottoms (not sides) with caramel. Bring cream, milk and 1/4 cup sugar to boil in heavy medium saucepan, whisking until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat. Add chocolate and stir until chocolate melts and mixture is
smooth. Whisk in instant coffee, yolks, and egg.

Divide custard mixture evenly among caramel-lined ramekins. Add enough hot water to baking pan to come halfway up sides of ramekins. Bake until custards are set around edges and
centers move only slightly when baking pan is shaken, about 30 minutes.

Remove custards from water and cool completely. Refrigerate until very cold, about 4 hours. (Custards can be prepared 1 day ahead.)

For Ganache:
Dissolve instant coffee in 1/2 teaspoon water in small bowl. Combine chocolate and cream in heavy small saucepan. Stir over low heat until chocolate melts and mixture is smooth.
Remove from heat and stir in coffee mixture. Cool until just warm to touch.

Divide ganache among custards. Spread ganache with back of spoon to cover top of custards completely. Refrigerate until ganache is set, at least 30 minutes. (Can be prepared
3 days ahead; cover.)

Run small sharp knife around edge of custards to loosen. Invert custards onto plates and serve.

Bon Appetit March 1991

Lemon Risotto

Approx 5 cups chicken stock (preferably homemade)
Sprig of fresh Mint
Sprig of fresh rosemary
Sprig of fresh sage
Grated zest of 1 lemon
4 Tbs unsalted butter
1 Tbs extra-virgin olive oil
2 shallots, minced
Sea salt to taste
1 1/2 cups Italian Arborio rice
3 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 Cup freshly grated Italian Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus additional for the table

1. In a large saucepan, heat the stock and keep it simmering, at barely a whisper, while you prepare the risotto.
2. Stem the fresh herbs. Combine the leaves with the lemon zest and, with a large chef's knife, chop finely. Set aside.
In a large heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine 2 Tbs of the butter, the oil, shallots, and salt over moderate heat. Cook, stirring, until the shallots are soft and translucent, about 3 minutes. (Do not let the shallots brown.) Add the rice, and stir until the rice is well coated with the fats, glistening and semitranslucent, 1 to 2 minutes. (This step is important for good risotto: The heat and fat will help separate the grains of rice, ensuring a creamy consistency in the end.)
3. When the rice becomes shiny and partly translucent, add a ladleful of the stock. Cook, stirring constantly, until the rice has absorbed most of the stock, 1 to 2 minutes. Add another ladleful of the simmering stock, and stir regularly until all of the broth is absorbed. Adjust the heat as necessary to maintain a gentle simmer. The rice should cook slowly and should always be covered with a veil of stock. Continue adding ladlefuls of stock, stirring frequently and tasting regularly, until the rice is almost tender but firm to the bite, about 17 min. total. The risotto should have a creamy, porridge-like consistency.

4. Remove the saucepan from the heat and stir in the remaining 2 Tbs butter, the lemon zest and herbs, lemon juice, and the Parmesan. cover and let stand off the heat for 2 min., to allow the flavors to blend. Taste for seasoning. Transfer to warmed shallow soup bowls, and serve immediately, passing additional cheese, risotto waits for no one!

Wine suggestion - A pale, golden Vernaccia from the hilltop village of San Gimignano in Tuscany.

Patricia Wells "Trattoria"

Iceberg Salad at Bubba's Diner

4 Roma tomatoes, halved lengthwise
1/2 cup + 1 tbl. olive oil
1 tbl. + 1 tsp. chopped fresh basil
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
salt and freshly ground pepper
3 tbl. minced onion
1 garlic clove, minced
4 oz. domestic blue cheese
2 tsp. lemon juice
2 heads iceberg lettuce, trimmed of all outer loose leaves

1. Toss tomatoes with 1 tbl. olive oil, 1 tsp. basil, 1 tsp. vinegar and salt and pepper to taste. Place the tomatoes cut side up on a cookie sheet. roast in a 400f oven for 20 minutes. Let cool.

2. Combine the minced onion, garlic and the remaining 1 tbl. basil in a medium bowl. Whisk in the remaining 1/2 cup olive oil. Crumble in half of the cheese; whisk in the remaining vinegar and the lemon juice. Season to taste with pepper.

3. Let stand at room temperature for 30 to 45 minutes. Taste for tartness (the dressing should be pungent). Add more vinegar or lemon juice, pepper and a pinch of salt, if necessary.

4. Holding 1 head of lettuce firmly at the top, rap the base firmly on the counter to dislodge the triangular core. Remove and discard it. Using your fingers and thumbs, pull the head into 2 large sections. Pull each section into 3 smaller sections. Repeat with the second head of lettuce. You will have 12 slightly triangular-shaped sections. Wrap airtight and chill thoroughly.

5. On a chilled platter, arrange the lettuce sections so they lean against one another in a tepee shape. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper.

6. Whisk the dressing and drizzle over the lettuce. Crumble the remaining cheese over the lettuce. Garnish the platter with the tomatoes.

(420 cal, 8 g. protein, 9 g. carbo, 41 g. fat (10 g. sat), 21 mg. cholesterol, 412 mg. sodium, 3 g. fiber)

Bubba's Diner, San Anselmo, CA

hot hominy dish

Finely dice one medium onion
finely dice one jalapeno
1 can cream of mushroom soup
3/4 C. cheddar cheese grated
2 cans hominy
1/2 stick butter

saute onion and jalapeno in butter. Add all other ingredients in pan. Bake in oven for 30 minutes.

serve with tortilla chips or sliced toasted baguette

from Julie the shop girl

hot crab and jalapeno dip

1½ tsp. olive oil
½ red bell pepper, seeded & chopped
1 14-oz. can artichoke hearts, drained and chopped
1 C. mayonnaise
½ C. freshly grated Parmesan
¼ C. thinly sliced green onion
1 Tbl. Worcestershire sauce
1 Tbl. finely chopped pickled jalapeno chili
1½ tsp. fresh lemon juice
½ tsp. celery salt
8 oz. fresh crab meat, drained & picked over
1/3 C. slivered almonds (1¾ oz)

Heat olive oil in medium nonstick skillet over med-hi heat. Add bell pepper and saute until light brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer pepper to a large bowl.

Add artichoke hearts, mayonnaise, Parmesan green onions, Worcestershire jalapeno, lemon juice and celery salt to pepper. Stir to combine. Gently mix in crab meat. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer mixture to 8" diameter quiche or pie pan with 1½ " high sides, spreading evenly. Sprinkle with almonds. Bake until is light golden brown and bubbly, about 30 minutes. Serve warm.

Deliciously Different Specialty Foods, NY

Herbed Olives

3 cups (about 3/4 pound) mixed black and green brine cured olives, such as Kalamata, picholine, and Gaeta
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 to 1-1/2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary and/or thyme leaves or 1 to I l/2 teaspoons crumbled dried
1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
2 garlic cloves, sliced thin lengthwise
1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds, or to taste, crushed
1/4 teaspoon dried hot red pepper flakes, or to taste

In a container with a tight fitting lid combine all ingredients with salt and pepper to taste and chill, shaking occasionally, at least 1 day and up to 1 week.
Serve olives at room temperature. Makes 3 cups.


Green Lentil, Sun Dried Tomato and Feta Salad

3 tbl. extra virgin olive oil
2 tbl. white-wine vinegar
1/4 tsp. dried thyme, crumbled
1/4 cup drained finely chopped sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil
1 cup fresh green lentils, picked over and rinsed.
1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese (about 2 oz)

In a large bowl whisk together oil, vinegar, thyme, tomatoes, and salt and pepper to taste.

Add lentils to a large saucepan of salted water and bring water to a obil. Cook lentils at a bare simmer until just tender, about 20 minutes. Drain lentils in a sieve and rinse gently.

Toss lentils well with dressing and gently stir in feta. Serves 4 as a side dish.

Best of Gourmet

Great Cheese Appetizers or Snacks

1. Haloumy, brushed with olive oil, garlic and cumin, then grilled alongside sliced or halved tomatoes. You could also use feta, but as this cheese will melt through the grill, place it on a thick slice of bread first.

2. Sliced, cooked polenta, spread with a little mild Dijon-type mustard, then a slice of Gruyere. Broil until bubbly; garlic and rosemary are optional.

3. Whole-wheat bread spread with a layer of crumbled feta, chevre or blue cheese, scattered with a little chopped garlic, then topped with a layer of grated Jack. Broil until bubbly, then serve on a bed of spring mixed greens and peeled and sliced beets (steamed or baked, coold to room temperature). Dress with olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

4. Fresh mozzarella, layered on bread or pizza base with spears of asparagus. Bake until asparagus is crisp and mozzarella melted. SErve dabbed with olive paste and sprinkled with Parmesan and herbs de Provence.

5. Walnut-sourdough bread with any pungent cheese or a selection of autumn grapes.

Marlena Spieler

Ginger Steamed Seabass "Pillow" with Garden Tomato Fume

6 oz. stripped bass, skinned
3 ea. Napa cabbage leaves, blanched
1 ea. small knuckle ginger, crushed
4 oz. garden tomato fume
4 ea. small potatoes, sliced thin and poached in fish stock

Garden Tomato Fume:

1 Tbs. shallots, chopped
1 Tbs. basil chiffonade (rolled and cut into thin strips)
1 tsp. tarragon, diced
2 oz. fish fume (fish stock)
1 oz. white wine
1 oz. extra virgin olive oil
1 Tbs. lemon juice
4 oz. tomato concasse (peeled, seeded, and diced tomatoes)

Prepare a steamer with the crushed ginger added to the water.

Season the stripped bass with salt and pepper, then wrap in the blanched Napa cabbage leaves.

Place the seabass "pillow" in the steamer and let steam 5 to 8 minutes.

In a medium size saute pan over medium heat, saute the shallots until soft.

Add the fish fume, white wine and lemon juice, and bring to a slow simmer.

Add the tomato concasse and tarragon and let simmer about 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and keep warm.


Place the garden tomato fume on a plate and a mound of the sliced potatoes over that.

Slice the seabass "pillow" in half at an angle then place the sliced pieces on the potatoes with one piece leaning against the other.

Sprinkle the basil chiffonade around the seabass and serve.

John Alamilla , Farallon

Ginger Scones

2 1/4 cups all purpose flour
1/3 cup sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon grated lemon peel
11 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter, cut into small
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons whipping cream
2/3 cup diced crystallized ginger

Preheat oven to 400F Lightly butter baking sheet. Blend
flour, sugar, baking powder and lemon peel in processor.
Add butter and cut in using on/off turns until mixture
resembles coarse meal. Transfer mixture to large bowl. Make
well in center; add 3/4 cup cream. Using fork, stir until
just moist. Mix in ginger.Transfer dough to floured surface
and gently knead until smooth, about 8 turns. Divide dough
in half; pat each portion into 3/4-inch-thick round. Cut
each round into 6 wedges and transfer to prepared baking
sheet, spacing 1 inch apart. Brush tops with remaining 2
tablespoons cream.
Bake scones until light brown, about 18 minutes. (Can be
made 1 day ahead. Cool completely. Store in airtight
container at room temperature. Rewarm in 350F oven before

Makes 12 scones.

La Brea Bakery, L.A.- Bon Appetit /January 2000

Garlic Roasted Crab

4 live crabs, about 1-3/4 lbs each, or substitute cooked crabs
1/2 cup salt
1 large lemon, quartered
1 cup distilled white vinegar
2 gallons water
1/4 cup butter
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup minced fresh garlic
Juice of 2 lemons
1/3 cup minced parsley
Parsley sprigs, lemon wedges for garnish

If using live crabs, cook them: Combine salt, lemon, vinegar and water in a large kettle and bring to a boil. When the water is boiling, drop in 2 crabs, 1 at a time. When the water resumes boiling, reduce the heat to a low boil, cover and cook the crabs for 10 minutes. Remove the crabs to a strainer in the sink. Repeat the cooking process with the remaining 2 crabs.

When the crabs are cool enough to handle, clean and crack them (see cleaning instructions), reserving the crab butter.

Preheat oven to 500. Put the butter, oil and garlic in a roasting pan. put the roasting pan in the oven to melt the butter. Add the cooked crab pieces, turning them to coat with the butter-oil mixture. Roast for 10-15 minutes, or until the crab shells are shiny, the crab is hot all the way through and the garlic is golden. Spoon over the lemon juice and the parsley and turn the crabs to coat evenly.

Spoon 1-2 tbl. of the pan juices into the reserved crab butter (if you have it from cracking the crabs yourself). Arrange the crab pieces on serving platters, then pour the pan juices over them. Garnish with sprigs of parsley and lemon wedges and serve with the crab butter.

Georgeanne Brennan, S.F. Chronicle, 12/24/97

garlic and herb pasta

2 Tbl. olive oil
20 garlic cloves, peeled
1½ C. chicken broth
¼ tsp. freshly ground pepper
½ C. minced fresh chives
½ C. minced fresh chervil or Italian parsley
¼ C. minced fresh basil
¼ C. minced fresh dill
2 Tbl. fresh minced tarragon
8 oz. cooked fettuccine

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and saute for 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and add ½ C. broth; cover and cook for 15-20 minutes. Remove the cover and cook until the garlic is tender and the liquid has evaporated. Crush half of the garlic with the back of a wooden spoon, and stir in the remaining broth, pepper, chives, chervil, basil, dill and tarragon. Mix well and keep warm over low heat.

Place fettuccine in a large pasta bowl and add the garlic sauce. Toss well and serve immediately.

Cal. 311, carb 49 g. protein 9 g. chol. 0 mg. fat 8 g.

from Ken's friend...

Flash-Fried Eggs

4 slices rustic French bread, crusts removed
2 teaspoons melted unsalted butter
1 1/2 cups oil
4 eggs
Salt to taste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Few handfuls of garden lettuces
Your favorite vinaigrette
1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley, chervil, tarragon, or a combination, for garnish

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees F. Place the bread slices on a baking sheet and brush with the melted butter. Bake for 10 minutes, or until golden. Keep the croutons warm.

In a frying pan or cast-iron pan, heat the oil until it is quite hot, about 325 F. More heat will cause the eggs to be tough and rubbery. Test the oil with a thermometer or by adding a bread cube. The oil should sizzle but not brown the bread. Crack 1 egg into the oil, then tilt the pan quickly to form a well of oil deep enough to immerse the egg. With a spoon, ease the exposed white away from the base of the pan. Gently fold the white over the yolk to enclose it. The layers of white will protect the yolk from the heat.

When the egg white appears firm and starts to brown, lift the egg out with a slotted spoon. Let the excess oil drip back in the pan. With the paper towel, blot the egg of excess oil on the top and bottom. Season with salt and pepper. Repeat with the remaining eggs.

Serve the fried eggs on croutons and garden lettuces, sprinkled with your favorite vinaigrette. Garnish with chopped herbs.

Gayle Pirie and John Clark, authors of "Country Egg, City Egg"

Five Ways to End a Meal with cheese

1. Fresh cheese such as Greek mizithra, fresh ricotta or queso fresco, drizzeled with lavender honey and scattered with the petals of edible blossoms

2. Fresh cheese served with a scattering of toasted nuts, a drizzle of warm honey and a sprinkling of aromatic cinnamon.

3. Ricotta, sweetened lightly with a little liqueur, then mixted intriguingly with diced dried apricots and chocoalte chips.

4. Parmesan with pears -- a combination of true love, especially when both are at the height of their ripe charm.

5. Ripe figs, split in half and drizzled with warm honey served on a plate with a slab of Gorgonzola and a handful of unsalted pistachio nuts.

But it is at the end of the meal that a small piece of cheese can thrill. Serve a small slice of a pungent, creamy cheese alongside a green salad, or a chunk of strong cheddar with a crisp apple tart.

I was in France recently with a S.F. friend, when the cheeseboard was brought to our table.

"I don't understand cheese for dessert," sid my friend as I worked my way through the vried and lush selection. "After a big meal, why do you want to eat cheese?"

"Because it's rich and delicious," I answered between bites. "Worth saving a little space for... more satisfying than a gooey pastery... and fabulous with the last of the red dinner wine." --M.S.

Marlena Speiler, S.F. Chronicle 10/25/95

Elizabeth David's Chocolate Cake

5 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon brewed espresso
1 tablespoon dark rum
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup whole blanched almonds, finely ground
3 large eggs, separated

This intense cake calls for a beautifully balanced red Amarone Recioto from the Veneto. Though expensive, the 1994 Quintarelli, with its rich, dark and expressive notes of dried raisins, is the perfect match. Less expensive alternatives include the 1994 Santi, the 1993 Tedeschi and the 1993 Allegrini.

The cooled cake can be wrapped in plastic and stored overnight at room temperature.

1. Preheat the oven to 300°. Butter and flour an 8-inch round cake pan.

2. In a large heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water, combine the chocolate with the butter, espresso and rum and stir until melted and smooth. Remove the bowl from the heat and stir in the sugar and ground almonds. Let the chocolate mixture cool slightly, then beat in the egg yolks, 1 at a time.

3. In a clean stainless-steel bowl, beat the egg whites to stiff peaks. Stir 1/3 of the beaten whites into the chocolate mixture, then fold in the remaining whites until fully incorporated. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 45 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. Let the cake cool completely on a rack before inverting it onto a platter.

Crab Cioppino

Tomato Sauce

1/2 yellow onion, diced
1/4 cup olive oil
2 cloves garlic, strained through a garlic press or finely chopped
1 12 oz. can of tomatoes, chopped
6 basil leaves
Salt and pepper to taste

3 whole fresh crabs (4 to 5 lbs. total)
2 oz. olive oil
3 cloves crushed fresh garlic
crab butter, save butter (roe) from three crabs
6 oz. dry white wine
2 oz. chopped fresh onions
6 prawns in shell, cut in half lengthwise
24 manila clams
24 mussels
1/4 cup clam juice or fish broth
2 fresh crushed tomatoes
1/4 oz. chopped fresh parsley
12 oz. tomato sauce (see above)
1/8 oz. chopped parsley
Salt and pepper to taste
Red pepper to taste

General Procedure:

1. Prepare the tomato sauce

2. Crack and clean crab for preparation

3. Follow instructions for Cioppino recipe

Warm heavy skillet on medium heat. Add olive oil and diced onion. When onion becomes transparent, add the garlic and simmer until light brown. Add the tomatoes, basil leaves and cook for 15 minutes.

Cracking a Fresh Crab

Connoisseurs prefer using a live crab with this method. Otherwise, you can cook the crab before cracking.

Place the crab face up with the pincers facing away from you. Hold down the legs with one hand, with the other, pull the sheff off the body with one quick motion. This kills the crab instantaneously. Remove the crab butter from inside the top of the shell and save. Discard the shell. From the crab's body cavity, clean the gills. Crack off the pinchers. Hold each side of the crab with one hand, and crack the body in half. Shake out the remaining crab butter and save. Pull of the legs along with the attached body joint. Place each leg flat on a hard surface. Crack the leg with a blow of a hammer or mallet. Shake off any loose pieces of shell. Set aside crab legs and butter for the Cioppino.

In a 4 quart kettle (or pot), heat the olive oil and sauté the onions until clear. Add the garlic and simmer until light brown. Add the crab butter and let simmer for two minutes. Next, add the wine to keep the butter and garlic from burning. Add tomatoes, tomato sauce, and red pepper to taste. Reduce for about 15 minutes. Add the broth, salt and pepper and crab. Cover and simmer on low heat for about 8 minutes. (If you cook your crab ahead of time, add the crab to the recipe at the same time you add the clams, prawns and mussels). Add the prawns, clams, mussels, and cook for 2 more minutes. Serve in a bowl and sprinkle the Cioppino with fresh parsley.

Serves 6

Nunzio Alioto.

Clams with Garlic White Wine Broth

2 lbs fresh clams
4 cloves garlic finely minced
1 shallot, finely minced
2 tbl olive oil
2 tbl. butter
1 cup chicken stock
2/3 cup white wine
1/2 cup minced fresh italian parsley
2 lemons
salt and freshly ground pepper

Scrub clams, submerge in water and store covered in refrigerator for 1 hour, rinse very well.

Heat olive oil and butter in large (5 qt) saute pan, then add garlic and shallots, cook over low heat for 5 minutes stirring often. Add chicken stock and heat to almost boiling. Add the clams and wine, cover and cook for 8-10 minutes or until clams are all opened. Throw in the parsley, salt and pepper to taste, and squeeze a lemon over everything, then stir to mix thoroughly.

Serve with lemon wedges and plenty of french bread to dip in the broth.

Chicken Pastry or B'stilla

1 chicken
salt, fresh black pepper
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
pinch of saffron
a tablespoon of mixed herbs or "bouquet garni"
3 large onions, peeled and minced
3 tablespoons oil
1/2 cup butter, margarine or diet margarine, clarified
7 eggs beaten
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup chopped cilantro or parsley
2 cups ground toasted almonds
1 tablespoon cinnamon
12 filo dough sheets
1/4 cup powdered sugar.

Place chicken in a roasting pan. if you use saffron threads, let them soak in half a cup of water. Pour on fowl. Sprinkle salt, pepper, turmeric and mixed herbs on top. roast chicken in oven at 400 f for 45 minutes to an hour. Cool. Remove skin and all bones. cube chicken. Keep giblets, except for the neck, with all the spicy, herbed juice. Set aside.

in a skillet, saute minced onions in oil. Place in a bowl. in the same skillet, with a little oil, fry the beaten eggs mixed with salt and chopped cilantro. Place in another small bowl. still in the same oiled skillet, toast almonds until slightly brown and grind them in a food processor. Set aside.

clarify the shortening, and everything is ready to be put together now. on the bottom of the pan used to roast the chicken, after washing and greasing it, stack 2 sheets of filo dough, letting edges overhang. Brush on top some of the clarified shortening. at broil, rapidly brown these 2 sheets. Then add cubed chicken, with all spices and juice.

Spread again 2 more dough sheets with some shortening brushed on. broil rapidly. Add soft mixture of eggs with cilantro. cover with 2 more greased sheets. broil rapidly. Add almonds mixed with cinnamon and sugar.

finish with your best-looking greased sheets. Tuck in all dough and bake 25 to 30 minutes at 400 f until golden grown. Cool slightly. Sprinkle with remaining powdered sugar, making a decorative crisscross with cinnamon on top. Serve hot. It can be reheated several times. It can also be frozen.

chicken breasts stuffed with goat cheese & basil

Serves 4

4 boneless chicken breast halves, skinned
1/2 C. fresh goat cheese (4 oz)
2 green onions, thinly sliced
3 basil leaves, shredded
1 egg, beaten to blend
1/2 C. dry bread crumbs
2 Tbl unsalted butter, melted
sauce: 1/4 C unsalted butter
1/2 lb. mushrooms, sliced
1/4 C. dry white wine
2/3 C. chicken stock
4 Tbl chilled unsalted butter cut into 4 pieces
salt and pepper

1. Pound chicken between sheets of waxed paper to 1/4" thickness using meat mallet. Pat chicken dry.
2. Combine cheese, green onions and basil in a small bow. Season with salt and pepper. Spread cheese mixture lengthwise over half of each chicken piece. Tuck short ends in. roll chicken up starting at one long side, into tight cylinders. Tie ends with string to secure. Dip chicken in egg, shaking off excess. Roll in bread crumb, shaking off excess.
3. Place chicken in 8" square baking dish. Pour 2 Tbl. melted butter over. Bake until cooked through, about 20 minutes.
Sauce: melt 1/4 C. butter in heavy large skillet. Add mushrooms and saute until tender, about 8 min. Add wine and boil 3 min. Add stock and boil until reduced by half, about 6 min. Remove from heat and swirl in 4 Tbl. cold butter 1 piece at a time. Season sauce with salt and freshly ground pepper.
4. Remove string from chicken. Cut crosswise into 1/2" rnds.

Bon Appetit 11/90

Caesar salad from Eleven Ristorante & bar

Eleven Ristorante is a long gone, but well remembered restaurant that was in SF and burned down some years back...

3 small heads romaine lettuce
6 whole anchovies

4 T. extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp. lemon juice
1 garlic clove minced
2 egg yolks
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp. anchovy paste
dash tobasco sauce
1 tsp. chopped parsley
generous 1/3 C. Parmesan
salt & freshly ground black pepper

Pull the coarse leaves off the heads of romaine, leaving the tender inner leaves attached to the base. Slice off 1" of base, wash leaves well, pat dry without breaking leaves. Cover w/damp paper towel and refrigerate until needed.

In a mixing bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, garlic, mustard and anchovy paste until well blended. Add the oil in a slow steady stream, whisking constantly. When all the oil has been added and the sauce is thick, whisk in the tobasco, lemon juice, parsley and Parmesan Season dressing to taste with salt and several grindings of pepper. Drizzle dressing over each romaine portion and top with one anchovy, croutons and additional Parmesan if desired.

Bread Salad Panzanella

3 c. day-old italian bread, torn into bite-size pieces
1 lb. tomatoes, seeded and coarsley chopped
1/2 med. red onion, sliced
1/2 small cucumber, peeled, and chopped
1/2 c. snipped fresh basil
2 tbl snipped fresh parsley
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tbl. red wine vinegar
2 tbl. olive oil
1/4 tsp. salt
freshly ground pepper
torn mixed greens (about 4 cups)

In a large mixing bowl, combine bread, chopped tomatoes, onion, cucumber, basil, parsley and minced garlic.

For dressing, in a glass measure stir together vinegar, oliv eoil, salt and pepper; spoon over salad. Toss gently to coat. Let stand for 15 minutes to allow the flavors to blend. Serve over torn greens. Makes 4 side-dish servings.

Bluefish (or mackerel) with Chipotle Vinaigrette

Chipotle Vinaigrette:
2 tbl. cider vinegar
2 tbl. fresh lime juice
2 tsp. Dijon mustard
1 clove garlic, through the press
1 shallot, finely minced
2 tsp. finely chopped canned chipotle peppers
1 tbl. chopped fresh cilantro
1 tsp. sugar
1 tbl. olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 8-oz. bluefish or mackerel fillets, skinned
1/2 tsp. vegetable oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Vinaigrette: In a small bowl, whisk together vinegar, lime juice, mustard, chipotles, shallot, garlic, cilantro and sugar. Gradually whisk in olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. (Can be prepared ahead and stored, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days).

To grill the fish: Prepare a charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill. Rub fillets with oil and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper and . When the fire is medium low, grill the fish, covered with a metal pie pan or foil. Cook the fillets for 8 to minutes on the first side. Turn them over and cook, covered, about 5 minutes on the second side, or until the flesh is opaque. Remove the fillets from the grill and cut each into 2 portions. Pour the Chipotle Vinaigrette over the fillets and serve.

Serve with lemon or lime wedges.

162 calories per serving of bluefish; 20 g. protein; 8 g. fat; s g. carbo; 134 mg. sodium; 50 mg. cholesterol.

Eating Well

Blueberry Boy-Bait

2 cups flour
1 1/4 cups sugar
10 tablespoons cold butter
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
2 eggs -- separated
1 cup milk
1 1/2 cups fresh blueberries, washed -- drained
and blotted with paper towels

You can use frozen blueberries that have been thoroughly thawed and drained

1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 13 x 9-inch pan with butter and then flour it lightly. Sift together the flour and sugar into a large mixing bowl. Cut the butter into pieces, then work into the flour mixture using your fingertips or a pastry blender. (If you have a food processor, place the flour and sugar in bowl and pulse to mix. Add the butter, which should be cold and cut into pieces, and pulse 7 or 8 times until the flour takes on the texture of coarse meal.) The flour should take on the texture of coarse meal, with a few pea-size pieces of butter still visible, and turn slightly yellow. Reserve 1/2 cup of this mixture to use as a topping.

2. Add the baking powder, the salt, the egg yolks (reserve the whites), and the milk to the flour mixture still in the bowl. Beat with an electric mixer on low speed for about 3 minutes. (This can also be done by hand with a wooden spoon).

3. In a separate bowl, whip the egg whites until they hold 2-inch peaks. Fold gently into the batter. Spread batter in the prepared pan. Sprinkle blueberries (make sure they are dry) on top, then sprinkle with the reserved 1/2 cup crumb mixture.

4. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes or until the center of the cake bounces back when pressed with the flat side of a fork. Let cool for 30 minutes before serving either as a coffee cake or a dessert, the latter with whipped cream.

The Yellow Farmhouse Cookbook -by Christopher Kimball


1 pink grapefruit
3/4 cup plus one tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon grated lime zest
1 1/2 teaspoons soy sauce
2 ripe Haas avocados
6 large shiso or mint leaves
Nasturtium flowers for garnish

This is an easy salad for summer. The chilled, transparent grapefruit is harmonious with the refreshing tastes of lime and mint-like shiso. Cut-glass serving dishes add to the feeling of freshness.

Peel and section the grapefruit, and remove the membranes and seeds. Cut the fruit into triangular wedges. Cover and chill.

Mix 1/4 cup of the lime juice, the zest and soy sauce in a small bowl.

Just before serving, peel, halve and pit the avocados. Place the halves, cut side down, on a cutting board and slice them into wedges the same size as the grapefruit. Sprinkle them with the remaining lime juice to prevent browning.

For each serving, place a shiso leaf on a small plate or bowl. Pile on avocado and grapefruit wedges in overlapping fashion to form a mound. In a deep bowl, the food should come to just below the edge; in a shallow bowl or plate, the arrangement should rise just above the rim. Leave empty space on all sides of the mounded food. Pour the dressing on the side to form a small pool. Garnish with nasturtium flowers.
April 30, 1997

"The World in a Bowl of Tea," By Bettina Vitell. Copyright 1997, HarperCollins

arugula salad with baked goat cheese

2 6-oz. soft goat cheese logs (such as Montrachet), cut into 1/2" thick rounds
2 Tbl. chopped fresh parsley
1 Tbl. minced fresh oregano
1 Tbl. minced fresh tarragon
2 Tbl. chopped green onions
1/2 C. extra-virgin olive oil

1 C. dry coarse bread crumbs

2-1/2 Tbl. balsamic vinegar
4 fresh arugula bunches, stemmed

1. Place cheese in a baking dish. Sprinkle half of herbs and green onions over. Turn and sprinkle remaining herbs and onions over. Drizzle 1/4 C. oil over. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let stand 1 hour at room temp.

2. Preheat oven to 350°. Dredge goat cheese rounds in bread crumbs. Transfer to baking sheet. Bake until soft, about 10 minutes.

3. Whisk vinegar and remaining oil in small bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Place arugula in medium bowl. Toss with enough dressing to season to taste. Divide green among plates. Top with goat cheese and serve.

1701 Cafe/Warwick Hotel, Philadelphia, PA

Almond Bread Pudding

1/2 cup chopped almonds
10 almond-filled or plain croissants
4 eggs, beaten
1 cup fructose or sugar
2 cup milk
1/2 tsp.almond extract
1/2 tsp.vanilla extract
pinch salt

Preheat oven. Slice the croissants crosswise and place carefully in a buttered baking pan, cut-side up.

Blend all of the remaining ingredients together well and pour evenly over the croissant slices. Press down all over the surface of the pudding and let stand for 10 minutes. Press the surface again to allow the croissants to soak up the batter evenly. Sprinkle with 1/2 c. of chopped almonds and bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes.

Oh, that bread pudding! Be still, oh my heart!
Country Fare restaurant in Palo Alto, CA

Ahi Tuna and Shrimp Poke

From Joey Altman, 2001

1/2 pound sashimi grade Ahi Tuna, cut into small dice
1/2 pound rock shrimp, cooked and cut into small dice
1/2 cup cucumber cut in small diced
1/4 cup minced scallions
2 tablespoons minced ginger
1 tablespoon minced jalapeno chile
1 tablespoon minced shallot
1 teaspoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon chile oil
1 teaspoon sugar

Mix all of the ingredients together in a bowl and serve with deep fried wontons or croutons.

Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Wednesday, January 24, 2007

Spirit-Lifting Burrito

Serves 1

Yah, this doesn't sound very authentic, and yah it falls into the category of wrap more than burrito, but it still sounds fabulous!

... It may appear that the entire filling won't fit into the tortilla. It will distribute evenly as you fold the burrito up. Wrapping the burrito in foil is optional, but it does hold everything nice and neat. I don't believe in eating a burrito that falls apart or needs a fork and knife.

2 teaspoons canola oil
1/2 cup spinach
1 egg
1 teaspoon mirin
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 green onion, chopped
1 small garlic clove, chopped
1 large burrito-size (about 9 1/4 inches wide) flour tortilla
1/4 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese with jalapenos (optional)
1 teaspoon black sesame seeds
1/4 cup canned black beans (optional)
1/4 cup steamed rice (optional)
1/3 cup mung bean sprouts
Sriracha sauce or regular salsa
5 cilantro sprigs, chopped
1/2 fresh lime

Instructions: Heat 1 teaspoon of the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the spinach and saute until just wilted. Set aside.

Beat the egg in a small bowl. Add the mirin, sugar, soy sauce, green onion and garlic. Heat the remaining 1 teaspoon oil in the same skillet and scramble the egg mixture in it.

Microwave the tortilla between two slightly damp paper towels for 30 seconds. Place the steamed tortilla on a 10-inch-long piece of aluminum foil. Put the cheese in a pile in the middle of the tortilla. Add the scrambled egg and sauteed spinach. Sprinkle the sesame seeds over the egg and spinach.

Add the black beans and rice, if desired, and mung bean sprouts. Add sriracha sauce to taste. Sprinkle on the cilantro and squeeze lime juice over all.

Using the foil as a base, fold the bottom third of the tortilla up over the filling, pushing the down on the pile and you roll forward. Take the left side of the tortilla that has no filling and fold it over the filling. Do the same with the right side, shifting the filling as it forms a tube shape.

To hold the burrito together, wrap the foil around the burrito the same way. Twist close the top if you are saving it for later. This will keep in the fridge for one day. Reheat in a 350° oven for 20 minutes. When ready to eat, simply peel the foil back as you eat.

Per serving: 450 calories, 15 g protein, 51 g carbohydrate, 20 g fat (3 g saturated), 213 mg cholesterol, 768 mg sodium, 5 g fiber.

Former San Francisco resident Linda Furiya has traveled and lived throughout the United States and Asia. Her first book, "Bento Box in the Heartland: A Japanese Girlhood in Whitebread America'' (Seal Books) was published in 2006. E-mail her at

Monday, January 22, 2007

Orange-Flavored Chicken

5/2005 From America's Test Kitchen website

We prefer the flavor and texture of thigh meat for this recipe, though an equal amount of boneless skinless chicken breasts can be used. It is easiest to grate the orange zest and remove the strips of orange peel before juicing the oranges; use a sharp vegetable peeler to remove the strips. For extra spiciness, increase the cayenne added to the sauce to 1/2 teaspoon. The whole dried chiles are added for appearance, not for flavor, and can be omitted.

To fry the chicken, use a Dutch oven or a straight-sided sauté pan (with at least 3-quart capacity); do not use a 12-inch skillet with sloped sides, as it will be too small to contain the oil once the chicken is added. White rice and steamed broccoli are good accompaniments.

Serves 4

Marinade and Sauce
1 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs , trimmed and cut in 1 1/2-inch pieces
3/4 cup low-sodium chicken broth
3/4 cup orange juice , plus 1 1/2 teaspoons grated zest, and 8 strips orange peel (each about 2 inches long by 1/2 inch wide) from 2 oranges
6 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
1/4 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar (3 1/2 ounces)
3 medium cloves garlic , minced or pressed through garlic press (about 1 tablespoon)
1 piece fresh ginger (about 1 inch), grated (1 tablespoon)
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon cornstarch , plus 2 teaspoons
2 tablespoons water (cold)
8 small whole dried red chiles (optional)

Coating and Frying Medium

3 large egg whites
1 cup cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
3 cups peanut oil

1. FOR THE MARINADE AND SAUCE: Place chicken in 1-gallon zipper-lock bag; set aside. Combine chicken broth, orange juice, grated zest, vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, garlic, ginger, and cayenne in large saucepan (with at least 3-quart capacity); whisk until sugar is fully dissolved. Measure out 3/4 cup mixture and pour into bag with chicken; press out as much air as possible and seal bag, making sure that all pieces are coated with marinade. Refrigerate 30 to 60 minutes, but no longer.

2. Bring remaining mixture in saucepan to boil over high heat. In small bowl, stir together cornstarch and cold water; whisk cornstarch mixture into sauce. Simmer sauce, stirring occasionally, until thick and translucent, about 1 minute. Off heat, stir in orange peel and chiles (sauce should measure 1 1/2 cups); set sauce aside.

3. FOR THE COATING: Place egg whites in pie plate; using fork, beat until frothy. In second pie plate, whisk cornstarch, cayenne, and baking soda until combined. Drain chicken in colander or large mesh strainer; thoroughly pat chicken dry with paper towels. Place half of chicken pieces in egg whites and turn to coat; transfer pieces to cornstarch mixture and coat thoroughly. Place dredged chicken pieces on wire rack set over baking sheet; repeat with remaining chicken.

4. TO FRY THE CHICKEN: Heat oil in 11- to 12-inch Dutch oven or straight-sided sauté pan with at least 3-quart capacity over high heat until oil registers 350 degrees on instant-read or deep-fry thermometer. Carefully place half of chicken in oil one piece at a time; fry until golden brown, about 5 minutes, turning each piece with tongs halfway through cooking. Transfer chicken to large plate lined with paper towels. Return oil to 350 degrees and repeat with remaining chicken.

5. TO SERVE: Reheat sauce over medium heat until simmering, about 2 minutes. Add chicken and gently toss until evenly coated and heated through. Serve immediately.

Secrets to Great Orange Chicken
1. Soy-orange marinade keeps chicken juicy.
2. Patting marinated chicken dry helps chicken adhere.
3. Beaten egg white acts as "glue," securing coating to chicken.
4. Cornstarch and baking soda coating fries up golden and crisp.
5. Frying in peanut oil produces chicken with fresh, clean flavor.

Sunday, January 21, 2007

Rustic Slow-Simmered Tomato Sauce with Meat

3/2000 from Cook's Illustrated.

This is a great cold weather dish, it's one of those recipes that takes a long time to cook, so you get to hang out by the warm stove stirring the fragrant sauce while it cooks down for several hours. I ended up adding a bay leaf, and about 1 cup of stock towards the end as the sauce really cooked down and got very thick. I also added 4 cloves of garlic with the ribs at the start and they cooked down into the sauce very nicely.

This sauce can be made with either beef or pork ribs. Depending on their size, you will need 4 or 5 ribs. To prevent the sauce from becoming greasy, trim all external fat from the ribs and drain off most of the fat from the skillet after browning. This thick, rich, robust sauce is best with tubular pasta, such as rigatoni, ziti, or penne. Pass grated Pecorino (especially nice with pork) or Parmesan cheese at the table. The sauce can be covered and refrigerated for up to 4 days or frozen for up to 2 months.

3 1/2 cups (to sauce 1 lb of pasta)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 1/2 pounds beef short ribs , or pork spareribs or country-style ribs, trimmed of fat

Table salt and ground black pepper
1 medium onion , minced
1/2 cup red wine

(28 ounce) can whole tomatoes , drained, juice reserved, tomatoes chopped fine

1. Heat oil in 12-inch, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Season ribs with salt and pepper and brown on all sides, turning occasionally with tongs, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer ribs to plate; pour off all but 1 teaspoon fat from skillet. Add onion and sauté until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add wine and simmer, scraping pan bottom with wooden spoon to loosen browned bits, until wine reduces to a glaze, about 2 minutes.

2. Return ribs and accumulated juices to skillet; add tomatoes and reserved juice. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer gently, turning ribs several times, until meat is very tender and falling off the bones, 1 1/2 hours (for pork spareribs or country-style ribs) to 2 hours (for beef short ribs).

3. Transfer ribs to clean plate. When cool enough to handle, remove meat from bones and shred with fingers, discarding fat and bones. Return shredded meat to sauce in skillet. Bring sauce to a simmer over medium heat and cook, uncovered, until heated through and slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. To serve, toss sauce with drained pasta.

Friday, January 19, 2007

Shaking Beef (Bo Luc Lac)

Adapted from Chef Charles Phan of the Slanted Door Restaurant (San Francisco, CA). I found this on an advertisement in the SF Chron for his restaurant...

Don't be intimidated by the long list of ingredients, it is pretty easy to make at home, just be sure to read the entire recipe first so you organize your time as it is a dish that must be made in steps and can't be done all at once!


2 pounds beef tenderloin, trimmed of fat and cut in 1-inch cubes
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons peanut or canola oil

1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
1 tablespoon fish sauce
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
1/4 cup rice vinegar
1/4 cup rice wine

Salt and Pepper Sauce
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
Juice from 1/2 of a lime

4 tablespoons peanut or canola oil, divided 2 tablespoons
finely chopped fresh garlic
3 green onions, cut into 1-inch lengths
1/2 cup slivered red onions
2 teaspoons butter
1 bunch watercress, for garnish

In bowl, combine beef and marinade ingredients; cover and refrigerate for two hours. In second bowl, whisk together vinaigrette ingredients; set aside. In small bowl, combine Salt and Pepper Sauce ingredients; set aside.

In a large non-stick skillet over medium-high heat, add 2 tablespoons of the oil; heat until smoking. Add half the meat in a single layer and cook for about 1 minute, until it forms a brown crust. Using tongs, turn over meat and cook another minute. Add half the garlic, and half the red and green onions; cook for 30 seconds. Add half the vinaigrette and shake the skillet to release the beef; add the butter and continue to shake the skillet until butter is melted.

Spoon beef into a bowl and keep warm. Wash skillet and repeat process to cook remaining ingredients. Spoon entire mixture over watercress and serve with Salt and Pepper Sauce for dipping.

Makes 4 servings.

• NOTE: Charles Phan cooks the beef in batches in a single layer. Do not crowd the beef in the skillet; it will steam instead of turning a nice caramelized brown color. You may need to divide the ingredients into as many as four batches, depending on the size of your skillet.

Rick Bayless Classic Tortilla Soup

This is a very easy and flavorful recipe from Rick Bayless's Everyday Mexican cookbook (which has tons of really good dishes - much simpler than some of his other cookbooks). I have added a teaspoon or so of cumin to this for extra zip, and have doubled the chile amount too without injuring my delicate tastebuds. Last time I made this, I sort of burnt the chile, and it actually tasted quite good, deeper and darker with a bit of tobacco...

Earthy dark pasilla chile (sometimes called negro)... its unique flavor defines tortilla soup in central Mexico. In Michoacan, in west-central Mexico, it's ancho chile. In your kitchen, it might turn out to be another chile, like New Mexico or even a little smoky chipotle (be forwarned that chipotle will make the broth quite spicy).

Makes 10 cups, serving 6

1 large dried pasilla (negro) chile, stemmed and seeded
One 15-oz can diced tomatoes in juice (preferably fire-roasted)
2 tblsp vegetable or olive oil
1 medium white onion, sliced 1/4 inch thick
3 garlic cloves, peeled
2 quarts chicken broth
1 large sprig fresh epazote, if you have one
4 (about 1-1/4 lbs total) boneless, skinless chicken breast halves, cut into 1/2 inch thick cubes
1 large ripe avocado, pitted, flesh scooped from the skin and cut into 1/4 inch cubes
1-1/2 cups (6 oz) shredded Mexican melting cheese, or Monterey Jack, brick or mild cheddar
A generous 4 cups (about 6 oz) roughly broken tortilla chips
1 large lime, cut into 6 wedges, for serving

Quickly toast the chile by turning it an inch or two above an open flame for a few seconds, until its aroma fills the kitchen. (Lacking an open flame, toast it in a dry pan over medium heat, pressing it flat for a few seconds, then flipping it over and pressing it again.) Break the chile into pieces and put in a blender, along with the tomatoes with their juice. (A food processor will work, but it won't completely puree the chile.)

Heat the oil in a large (4 quart) saucepan over medium-high. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until golden, about 7 minutes. Scoop up the onion and garlic with a slotted spoon, pressing them against the side of the pan to leave behind as much oil as possible, and transfer to the blender; set the pan aside. Process until smooth. Return the pan to medium-high heat. When it is quite hot, add the puree and stir nearly constantly until thickened to the consistency of tomato paste, about 6 minutes. Add the broth and epazote if using. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 15 minutes. Taste and season with salt, usually about a generous teaspoon (depending on the saltiness of the broth).

Just before serving, add the chicken to the simmering broth. Divide the avocado, cheese and tortilla chips among the serving bowls. When the chicken is done, ususally about 5 minutes, ladle the soup into the bowls. Pass the lime separately. Rotisserie or grilled chicken can stand in for the raw chicken breasts (add it at the last second).

Hogwash, Hog Island Oyster Co.

Hogwash is the perfect condiment for fresh seafood, excellent with oysters and is a wonderful dipping sauce for freshly boiled crab.

Hog Wash
1/4 cup seasoned rice vinegar
1/4 cup natural rice vinegar
1/2 large shallot, peeled and finely diced
1/2 large Jalapeno pepper, seeded and finely diced
1/4 bunch of cilantro, finely chopped
juice of 1 lime

got this from their website

Shut-up Duck @ David and Caseys, Kensington

These two intrepid cookers live in the celestial hills overlooking Berkeley making it easy for them to swoop down to procure any item of gustatory delight. They had us over for Manka's Shut-Up Duck Legs, served with roasted brussel sprouts and mashed potatoes. The duck was soooo good, the long cook time had rendered out the fat, leaving a perfect crispy thin skin and the meat was fall of the bone tender. I found this recipe online here.
Serves 4

Manka's Inn chef Daniel DeLong prepared this dish for Prince Charles and Camilla Parker Bowles when they ate at the restaurant last November on a visit to Point Reyes. "Camilla doesn't particularly care for duck, and she wanted the recipe," reports DeLong. Billed as Duck Fit for a Prince to diners, the dish is called "Shut Up" Duck behind the scenes because a hush falls over the dining room when it's served.


4 duck legs, 8 to 10 ounces each, visible fat removed
1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
Several grinds of black pepper
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 medium yellow onion cut into 1/2-inch dice
6 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed with the side of a knife
3/4 cup red wine
1/3 cup orange juice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme
1 1/2 cups duck stock, or more as needed (available in the freezer case in many markets)


To prepare the duck: Season the duck legs on both sides with the salt and pepper. Put the legs on a flat rack and set the rack on a tray so that air circulates all around the legs. Refrigerate uncovered for 24 hours.

Preheat the oven to 350º.

Heat a 14-inch ovenproof skillet over moderate heat. Add the oil and swirl to coat. Add the duck legs, skin-side down. Cook until the skin is well browned and most of the fat has rendered; 15 to 20 minutes, pouring off the fat as it accumulates.

Set the duck legs aside on a plate. Add the onions to the skillet and cook, stirring, until they are softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for a minute or two to release its fragrance. Add the wine, raise the heat to high, and simmer until all the wine has evaporated. Add the orange juice and simmer until it is reduced by half.

Stir in the mustard, thyme and 1 1/2 cups stock, whisking until the mustard dissolves and the stock is simmering. Return the duck to the skillet, skin-side up. Cover with a round of parchment paper and a lid. Transfer the skillet to the oven and cook until the duck legs are tender when prodded with a fork, 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 hours.

Set the duck legs aside and pour the sauce into a measuring cup. Let the sauce settle for 10 to 15 minutes, then skim off fat. Return the sauce to the skillet and keep warm. If there is not enough sauce, add a little duck stock.

Preheat the broiler. To crisp the duck skin before serving, set the legs on a broiler rack about 8 inches from the element. Broil, watching constantly, until the skin is crisp. To serve, spoon a little sauce onto each plate and top with a duck leg.

Per serving (without skin): 205 calories, 21 g protein, 8 g carbohydrate, 7 g fat (3 g saturated), 79 mg cholesterol, 684 mg sodium, 0 fiber.

The amount of duck fat rendered during cooking varies greatly. Factors include the breed of duck and preparation. Therefore, the skin and separable fat are not included in the analysis. If left on, they will contribute more calories and fat.