When: March, for the best of the pick
How: Look for the smallest, most tender bunch of leaves.
Chop off the tough stems. Rinse the leaves well, in cold water, and shake off the excess. Then—to mellow their delectably bitter bite—sauté the leaves with a few handfuls of fresh spinach, a clove of crushed garlic, a teaspoon of chopped fresh ginger and a tablespoon each of sesame oil and soy sauce.
Why: From the French word for lion's tooth (dent-de-lion), these craggy greens have a sharp, earthy, tangy flavor that'll wake up your mouth.